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Brussels centre walk
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Brussels centre, take a walk to discover the city’s best and lesser-known spots
We would like to show you capital by sending you on a walk. Besides seeing monuments and historical squares you will also have time to visit a museum. The ideal starting place is Central Station. And from there we go directly to Market Square. You will really need a map of Brussels, which you can find at the tourist department on Market Square. We won’t be giving you any detailed historical information here. We will just point you to the things that we think are worth seeking out and taking a look at.
Everyone will wholeheartedly agree that Market Square in Brussels is a top attraction. No doubt the city hall, with its 96 metre high tower will demand your attention. Guided tours are sometimes organised, particularly on busy tourist days. There is also a tradition to hold temporary exhibitions in the rooms of the city hall. Information on these can be found in the inner courtyard of the building or www.brucity.be.
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If you stand with your back to the city hall you will see the Broodhuis directly in front of you. This is now home to the city of Brussels Museum, which contains works of art relating to the city. With the city hall to your right you will see the Dukes of Brabant House directly in front of you, which is now a bank. The house takes its name from the 19 busts on the first floor. On the right hand side, in one of the mansions, we have the Brewery Museum. This is not a brewery but it does give plenty of information on the making of beer. The square owes its magnificent appearance to the countless guild houses in the area, a few of which have been converted for catering businesses, some with cosy interiors. Interesting events regularly take place on Market Square, such as a carpet of flowers, musical performances on 11 July, the Flemish public holiday, a beautiful Christmas market over the Christmas period …
To the left of the city hall there is a little street (C. Bulsstraat), which leads on to Stoofstraat. A little further past the first crossroads we have the famous Manneken Pis. This fountain, a little man urinating, is pretty much the symbol of the city and dates from the 17th century. The real statue has long since gone - it has been stolen several times. The oldest Manneken Pis can be seen in the city of Brussels Museum (Broodhuis).
Let’s retrace our steps to the crossroads and take a left onto Lombaardstraat, carrying on until we reach Anspachlaan. Turn right and the first imposing building we see is the Brussels stock exchange. This 19th century building is open to the public, but for groups only. Nonetheless, it is well worth stopping to admire the many figures and statues decorating the Exchange. We will carry on walking and another three streets further on we turn right onto Bisschopsstraat. After the Muntcentrum we have the Muntschouwburg, otherwise known as the Munt. Compared with other 19th century buildings the Munt is very austere.
We carry on via the Schildknaapstraat to the St Michiel and St Goedele cathedral. The church’s appearance is influenced by three different building styles; the two main ones being gothic and baroque. This church became very well known through the burial of King Baudouin and the marriage of Prince Filip and Princess Mathilde. The marriage ceremony coincided with the end of the cathedral’s restoration, which took many years. On a more interesting point, the church sits on the “Brussels meridian”. Fortunately, the cathedral has not been obscured by the surrounding buildings so its full character can be enjoyed. You are free to enter the cathedral between services (under reservation).
It will not have escaped your attention that Brussels is built on hills, and you have another steep climb lying in wait. To the right of the cathedral we will take the Koloniënlaan to the parliament building on Wetstraat. On the days when parliament is sitting you will lots of well-known politicians coming and going. The Paleis der Natie, to give it its official name, can be visited, again in groups only. Individual visitors are allowed in on 21 July.
With our backs to the parliament building we can see the beautiful fountain in the Warandepark. We walk straight on and cross the recently re-laid Brussels Park, also known as Warandepark. This green oasis in the centre often gets very busy when commuters walk through, on their way from Central Station to the office. The members of the new federal government also cross this park when they go to swear allegiance to the king. When you walk through the park you arrive right in front of the entrance to the Royal Palace.
The Royal Palace in Brussels is not the King’s place of residence, but it is where he receives his guests. If he is in the country the Belgian tricolour flies. The Palace is a complex of many buildings joined together, and its current appearance dates from the early 20th century. You can visit this Palace between 22 July and early September. Cross Palace Square and turn right, along the Paleis. The Bellevue museums are just before the traffic lights.
BELvue, the museum on the history of Belgium
The new BELvue museum was inaugurated in late July 2005: it is devoted to the history of Belgium and located in the renovated rooms of the former Bellevue hotel, Palace Square, Brussels, beside the Royal Palace. There are 9 rooms to discover, dedicated to important periods of the country’s history. The presentation offers direct contact with unique historical documents, amazing film archives, striking photos and a selection of objects on view. The various exhibition areas are linked together on an uninterrupted pathway, which also illustrates the reigns of all the Belgian kings, with the help of a series of works and portraits characterising the personalities of the rulers and the population’s image of the royal family.
Past this building, which is joined to the Palace, we take a left to Koningsplein. In the centre of the square we see the equestrian statue of Godfried van Bouillon. To the left there is the very unassuming St Jacob-op-de-Koudenberg church. Feel free to go inside. You will see the unused royal box.
Koningsplein has always been the place where the people in charge of the country have stayed. You will probably notice the harmony of the buildings, and for this we can thank Karel van Lotharingen. Under this square you can see archaeological remains, including those of the former palace of Kaiser Charles. More information: www.coudenberg.com/.
Beside the church on Koningsplein we go through the Naamsestraat gate and then take the first street on the right (Karmelietenstraat). On our left-hand side we see Egmont Palace, built in the 16th century and radically altered a century later. It is now used as a conference centre by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. To escape the bustle of the city we will visit Egmont Park. The entrance is down the passage further up near the hotel.
Having visited the park we return via the passage and turn left to carry on towards the Palace of Justice. Again, a 19th century building by architect Joseph Poelaert. This is one of the largest buildings of its kind in Europe. You can go freely in and out, and you shouldn’t miss this opportunity to see the giant dome.
From Poelaert Square, in front of the Palace of Justice, we have a view of the city. This building is situated on one of the most central of Brussels’ hills. At the foot of the hill lies the district of Marollen. You can descend from the square using the stairs or lift. Some of the street names in Marollen, such as those of the old professions, refer to the area’s long history. In the Middle Ages tradesmen such as weavers and cloth makers lived here. Over time this area has been affected by several building projects, and this is part of the reason why it has lost some of its typical charm. Nonetheless, it is certainly worth paying the area a visit. Walk along past the local flea market, step inside the Minimen Church (early 18th century), go in search of Breughel, etc …
After this we ascend again and retrace our steps via Regentschapsstraat. A few hundred metres further on we see the Kleine Zavel on our right-hand side, just past the Conservatorium. This little park is most notable for its many statues. These figures represent the many guilds in Brussels: each figure has an attribute of one of the guilds. In the centre we see statues of counts Egmont and Hoorn. They dared to oppose the Spanish repression and paid for this with their lives. Among the other statues you will recognise a few other important historic figures: Willem de Zwijger, Gerard Mercator, Rembert Dodoens, MArnix van St Aldegonde, etc …
On the other side we have the Grote Zavel. This is an expensive area with lots of antique dealers. It is worth going inside the late gothic Zavel Church. Dating originally from the 16th century it was restored in the 19th century by followers of Violet-le-Duc. It was they who provided most of the ornamentation. The religious procession starts here early every July. Let’s return to Regentschapstraat and make our way back to Koningsplein.
Once there we’ll take a left onto the street sloping down and away. On the right-hand side we have the Musical Instruments Museum, housed in the former Old-England department store, a magnificent example of Art Nouveau. In this museum you can trace the development of musical instruments, from antiquity to the present day. More information: http://www.mim.fgov.be/.
On the left-hand side we have the Royal Museum of Old and Modern Art, and, on the corner of Museum Square, the Apartments of Karel van Lotharingen, which can also be visited. From Museum Square enter Ravensteinstraat and immediately on your right you will see the Palace of Fine Arts. Every year this museum is the focal point for Europalia, and other important temporary exhibitions too. It is world famous in the area of music - the Queen Elisabeth competition is held here every year.
We will retrace our steps to the Kunstberg, which we descend. On our left we see the Royal Library. Directly in front we see a clock with moving figures. Cross the busy crossroads and head for Market Square. But first of all, turn right into the covered shopping gallery. The Koninginne Gallery is probably the oldest in Europe, dating from 1847. This gallery opens onto Beenhouwersstraat, a famous street with many restaurants.
Turn left and after about 300 metres take a right into a dead-end street (Getrouwheidsgang). You will see Jeanneke Pis at the end. Local traders placed it here to attract more tourist customers, but the scheme apparently doesn’t work. Go back and follow Korte Beenhouwersstraat. Have a look at the facades along the streets, they are sometimes more attractive than the restaurants. Follow the Grasmarkt to return to Market Square.
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Picture: © iStockphoto.com/Franky De Meyer
Text: GVDV/RD - © AT-Europe bvba
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